The article almost appears to be an afterthought – included because Armstrong Tires had only paid for two-thirds of page 58. But that apparently insignificant article in the June 7, 1976 issue of Time magazine shook the wine world: “The unthinkable happened: California defeated all Gaul.” In a blind tasing of French and Californian “Pinot Chardonnays” and Cabernet Sauvignons, wines from California took first place in both categories.

According to legend, this was The event that introduced the world to New World wines and winemaking. It shook the French from their complacency and made them pay attention to innovations in winemaking. It is celebrated in the 2008 film Bottle Shock, starring Alan Rickman, Bill Pullman, and Chris Pine, which focuses on the story of Chateau Montelena, whose 1973 Chardonnay triumphed at the Paris tasting.

The film is bullsh*t. Almost entirely. Chateau Montelena was not a one-man operation. Mike Grgich, winemaker at Chateau Montelena, only appears as an extra in the film (the beret gives him away). Steven Spurrier was in his thirties at the time of the Paris tasting (Alan Rickman is a phenomenal actor, but he couldn’t convincingly play a 34-year-old in 2008 (nor does he try)). The Caves de la Madeleine and the Academie du Vin were not on the rocks. Patricia Gallagher, Steven Spurrier’s partner-in-crime in the Paris tasting, is recast as the owner of a car service played by Dennis Farina. The real tasting took place in a Parisian hotel, not in the ruins of a French country church. And although several of the California winemakers were touring French wineries at the time, none were present at the tasting.

But so what? If you want history, read a book. I recommend The Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine by George Taber, the author of the 1976 Time Magazine article. It places the tasting in its historical context and fills in the picture by including the story of Warren Winiarski, whose Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon took first place in the red category. Most of the facts in this post are drawn from this book.

As I’ve said, Bottle Shock is bullsh*t from an historical perspective, but then again, most movies “based on a true story” are bullsh*t. Bottle Shock is firmly rooted in the mythology of the 1976 Paris Tasting. That mythology began with the title of George Taber’s article, The Judgment of Paris, and has grown ever since. Bottle Shock is best seen as a product of that mythology and as such, it is a knock-out. The movie captures the spirit of what the Paris Tasting has come to mean. In myth and legend, the Paris Tasting established California as a serious contender in the wine world and Bottle Shock celebrates and codifies that interpretation.

And did I mention that it stars Alan Rickman? Imagine Hans Gruber or the Sheriff of Nottingham or Severus Snape scouring Napa Valley in search of palatable wines. Right? How have you not already watched this film?

So, in honor of the 45th anniversary (which we all know is the most significant anniversary) of the Judgment of Paris, do yourself a favor: put together a tray of your favorite snacks, open a bottle of wine, watch Bottle Shock, and contemplate the world that the 1976 Paris Tasting hath wrought.

Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons